FROM ATLANTA TO ... TEPOZTLAN, MEXICO
Tepoztlan recharges travelers’ spirits

By JEREMY SCHWARTZ

Cox News Service

Friday, September 05, 2008

TEPOZTLAN, Mexico - We made our way across the carpet of thick green grass, past the carefully manicured flowers exploding in a riot of oranges and yellows, and onto the cushion of the massage table. Outside, the red-clay cliffs soared high above us. Inside, whiffs of jasmine and vanilla and the soothing hands of the masseuse.

For decades, when stressed-out residents of Mexico City grew frustrated with the smog, traffic and crowds, they’ve headed to this magical town just 90 minutes south of the chaotic Mexican capital.

Tepoztlan is a town near Mexico City that offers travelers the chance to recharge from daily stress.Enlarge this image

The Tepozteco pyramid, an ancient Aztec temple, offers a difficult climb with stunning views as the payoff.

For many who journey here, Tepoztlan is a place to be refreshed, rejuvenated and maybe even re-born.

That’s probably got a lot to do with the dramatic cliffs that wrap around this village of 36,000, which traces its history back to more than a millennia before the Spanish arrived (legend has it that Tepoztlan was the birthplace of the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl). Homes and haciendas nestle into the lush, green valley, and its narrow, cobblestone streets are festooned with purple and pink bougainvillea.

Many visitors swear that Tepoztlan gives off an otherworldly vibration, a belief echoed in the number of crystal sellers, Mayan astrologers and other healers who have flocked here.

But even for those without a New Age bent, Tepoztlan offers a deeply relaxing vacation, and the town is a required de-stresser for anyone visiting nearby Mexico City.

The best place to soak up the town’s charms is the Posada del Tepozteco, a converted hacienda that is one of Mexico’s great hotels (Angelina Jolie stayed here for three months while filming the 2001 film Original Sin). Perched on one of the city’s high points, the outdoor restaurant and sitting areas offer an unparalleled view of the ancient cathedral, one of the oldest in Mexico, and a bustling market selling squash blossoms and mangos.

Activities in Tepoztlan tend to center around pampering and healing: most come for the massages and the temezcal, a kind of pre-Hispanic sweat lodge in which heat from rocks removes toxins. Most hotels in town have their own temezcal and connections with local masseuses who offer everything from aromatherapy massages to full body chocolate immersions (cacao, paradoxically, is said to aid weight loss when spread on the body).

If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can explore the town’s eight barrios, neighborhoods whose boundaries pre-date the colonial era. Each barrio has its own patron saint, chapel and festivals. Tepoztlan is a town of celebrations, and there is a reason nearly every day to shoot off fireworks.

The town also boasts an excellent museum in an old convent that used to house traveling bigwigs shuttling back and forth from Mexico City on official business.

Looming above the city is its other great attraction: the Tepozteco pyramid, an ancient Aztec temple that remains in good condition. The pyramid, which stands about 1,800 feet above the city, was a shrine to the Aztec god of pulque, a thick, milky alcoholic beverage that was the precursor to tequila. Residents of the town still celebrate Tepozteco by ascending the pyramid every Sept. 7 for an all-night homage.

It’s a murderous ascent up the pyramid - make sure you wear sensible shoes and carry a bottle of water - but you’ll be rewarded with an amazing view of the valley. On most days, believers burn incense to accompany pre-Hispanic drumming and dancing. The pyramid gets terribly crowded on weekends, and Sundays in particular, when the $3 entry fee is waived, and the hike can take more than an hour with traffic jams on narrow passages.

In fact, it’s good idea in general to visit Tepoztlan during the week if possible. On weekends, the invasion of Mexico City residents can give the place a crowded, hurried feel. On weekdays the town becomes the tranquil, serene place that drew visitors in the first place.

And on weekdays you can enjoy steep discounts at most hotels: At the Posada del Tepozteco, a split-level room with a gorgeous view of the town dips from $200 to about $120. Suites fall from $320 to $200.

Tepoztlan is also a paradise for food lovers. At Los Colorines, a bright, festive place, you can find local specialties like huauzontle capeado, a Mexican plant cooked in a batter of flour and egg and bathed in a delicious tomato-based sauce.

But the tastiest place may be the restaurant at Villa de Tepoz Fuego, an out-of-the-way bed-and-breakfast run by an American expat couple. The restaurant makes a highly credible claim to the city’s best margaritas and serves the town’s best gourmet cuisine. The clams in white wine sauce are not to be missed.

And those looking for a true escape would be hard pressed to find something better than Tepoz Fuego, situated on the outskirts of town and far from the fireworks marking the town’s many festivals. The exquisitely decorated hotel is also near a running track below the city’s famed cliffs that make for a truly spiritual exercise experience.

But try not to overexert yourself. Tepoztlan is after all about recharging batteries and steeling yourself for another battle against the stresses of modern life.

IF YOU GO:

Getting to Tepoztlan:

The town is about 90 minutes south of Mexico City and about 40 minutes west of Cuernavaca. Frequent buses to Tepoztlan depart Mexico City’s south terminal.

Buses also leave the Mexico City airport for Cuernavaca. From there you can take a taxi or bus to Tepoztlan.

In Tepoztlan:

Lodging varies from small, $50-a-night hotels to quaint bed-and-breakfasts to luxury spas that can cost more than $300. The Posada del Tepozteco (posada.planetbyte.com.mx/) has the best view in town, a temezcal and rooms and suites ranging from $200 to $320. Prices drop about 40 percent on weekdays. The Villa de Tepoz Fuego (www.villadeltepozfuego.com/), on the outskirts of town, has six uniquely decorated rooms, a fine restaurant, a pool, Jacuzzi and spa. Prices range from $125 to $250 a night.

Tepoztlan has a number of good eating options, from haute cuisine to traditional favorites. Los Colorines (Avenida de Tepozteco 13) is the merriest spot in town, a bright, festive place with good enchiladas, cecina and huauzontles capeados. El Ciruelo (Zaragoza 17) is the town’s classiest place with dishes like peppers stuffed with crab and banana. Don’t miss Tepoznieves (several locations), Mexico’s most fascinating ice cream shop, with flavors like corn, tequila and lime, pumpkin and rose petals.

The town’s weekend market is excellent, with lots of artesania and interesting food. The Tepozteco pyramid is a tough climb, but worth it for the view. The Ex-Convento de Dominico de la Natividad (free admission) has an excellent museum on the town’s history and customs.