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to read about us in the news Tepoztlan - July, 2007 I have just returned from spending
seven days in Tepoztlan, a mysterious pueblo located high (5,000 ft altitude)
in the mountains, and 60 miles south of Mexico City. The travel book describes
it best: "Tepoztlan is one of the strangest and most beautiful
towns in Mexico. Largely undiscovered by foreign tourists, it occupies the side
of the mountain and the floor of a lush valley whose walls were formed by bizarrely
shaped mountains that look like the work of some abstract expressionist giant.
The mountains are visible from almost everywhere in town - even the municipal
parking lot has a spectacular view. Tepoztlan is small and steeped in legend
and mystery ---it is adjacent to the alleged birthplace of Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec
serpent god. The town comes about as close as you're going to get to an unspoiled,
magical mountain hideaway." The location of the town reminded
me of those very old Chinese silk paintings of mountains veiled in mist and when
the sun comes out the surrounding mountains are stunning. While walking
through the plaza you see a beautiful mission and convent built in 1592. The Catholic
Church has a full-time staff of muralists who go around Mexico restoring old missions.
They were working on the convent while I was there. They gave me permission to
sit and watch them work
very interesting and time consuming. Talk about patience!
Also in the plaza is the colonial municipal building still being used for government
and areas for the open air market still held on Saturdays and Sundays. You notice
the people and realize you are looking at the descendents of Aztecs. You are looking
at history hidden away. Someone pointed out the pyramid ruin high on the mountain.
Once you know where it's located you find yourself checking it out throughout
your stay. Sometimes you'll see very old women wearing dresses and pinafores;
their hair pulled into one long braid hanging down their backs, and their faces
telling of hard lives. The townspeople are vibrant, very polite, helpful and sweet.
I asked a traffic patrolwoman where a particular building was and she took my
hand and walked me there. All the town's streets are paved in cobble
stones that are angled toward the middle of the road to funnel rain toward the
valley. Each night, a one-hour rain shower douses the town which accounts for
the lush vegetation. During the day you can hear horses' hooves clip clopping
along at a slow pace. Most of the cars are small due to narrow streets. Going
down the mountain closer to the valley, very tall stone and adobe walls hide houses.
Cascading bougainvillea of all colors adorn the walls. Of course I spent time
peeking through the tall gates and spied wonders (like Carter in 1923). I
stayed at the Villa del Tepoz Fuego, a wonderful B&B that was built only two
years ago by the owners, Bruce and Marci Kramer, originally from Maryland! They
were gracious and charming and quickly made me feel at home. The grounds of the
B&B are lovely. It backs up against the mountains and when you're having breakfast
outside you're looking up at them. Bruce said it was mandatory to spend at least
20 minutes each day in one of the three hammocks located in secret spots around
the garden. In addition to testing hammocks, I tested the pool and Jacuzzi. It
was all very exhausting requiring afternoon siestas. The staff is very accommodating
and efficient, great care is taken with details; the chef provides excellent food.
Scroll through their WEB pages: www.villadeltepozfuego.com
I realize I must sound like an advertisement but I cannot rave enough
about the B&B. One day I had lunch at the Posada del Tepoztco,
a Mexican "heritage" hacienda that has been converted to a hotel. www.posadadeltepozteco.com
Take a look
beautiful hotel with spectacular views. Getting
There. The best/easiest way to get there is to fly into Mexico City. Luckily the
B&B had transportation to/fro the airport at a special price. Julian (a superb
driver who had lived in Mexico City in a previous life) picked me up inside the
airport and drove me to Tepostlan (approx. 2 hours). Never rent a car!!!! Always
arrange car travel by private driver. The drive through Mexico City during rush
hour is scary, dangerous, and above all, thrilling! One travel book said that
"driving through Mexico City is like doing post-graduate work in chaos theory".
You will never forget the experience. I sat up front with Julian in order to experience
the full thrill of it all. One taxi company uses Volkswagen "Bugs" colored
bright lime green, hot red, and bright yellow; the front passenger seats have
been removed and passengers "crawl" into the back seat and stretch out
more comfortably. It made me yearn for an old VW again. Surprisingly, during the
driving chaos everyone is polite. You don't hear honking horns and, in fact, there's
an odd sort of rhythm that is very eerie. After leaving the city you start climbing
mountains on an excellent four lane highway with stunning views. After living
in arid San Jose del Cabo the lush vegetation takes your breath away: pine trees
(including torey pines), blooming flowers, much, much greenery. Flower stalls
along the roadway contain thousands of long-stem roses (three dozen for $7). Then,
all of a sudden, you are off the highway going down a rabbit hole on a paved,
switchback road
the sides of the road are built with brick scallops. Occasionally,
you see the valley far below. Finally you arrive in Tepoztlan and you enter another
world. I know I will return, someday. Travel Tips:
1) If you decide to visit Tepoztlan take aspirin because of the altitude. 2)
Know some Spanish. 3) Wear sturdy walking shoes (rubber soles) to walk over
the cobble stones.
=================================================================== Matthew
K from Queens, NY recommends this hotel Overall satisfaction Hotel service
Hotel condition Room cleanliness Room comfort 5 5.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 Posted:
15-Sep-08 Well worth the stay Villa Del Tepoz Fuego is an incredible
facility in a remarkable geographical area. The room was immaculate & comfortable.
The building was well maintained, and the landscaping was great. If you do stay
here I HIGHLY recommend that you eat in-house, especially dinner. The stuffed
salmon was to die for & the filet steak was aweome too. All within a modest
price as well. They have a huge wine selection ranging from affordable and tasty
to exquisite and hard to find. Save room for dessert and be sure to try the lemon
pie! The owner was nice and even willing to go out of his way for our needs. The
margaritas are one of a kind. Traveler's tip on local attractions Give
yourself a minimum of 3-4 days in the area no matter where you stay or you will
feel slighted. Their is a magical vibe in the town of Tepoztlan, a certain energy,
that you will be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world. Take the climb
up to pyrmaid, it is well worth it the trip. See most recent Traveler Opinions:
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