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Tepoztlan - July, 2007

I have just returned from spending seven days in Tepoztlan, a mysterious pueblo located high
(5,000 ft altitude) in the mountains, and 60 miles south of Mexico City. The travel book describes it best:

"Tepoztlan is one of the strangest and most beautiful towns in Mexico. Largely undiscovered by foreign tourists, it occupies the side of the mountain and the floor of a lush valley whose walls were formed by bizarrely shaped mountains that look like the work of some abstract expressionist giant. The mountains are visible from almost everywhere in town - even the municipal parking lot has a spectacular view.
Tepoztlan is small and steeped in legend and mystery ---it is adjacent to the alleged birthplace of Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec serpent god. The town comes about as close as you're going to get to an unspoiled, magical mountain hideaway."

The location of the town reminded me of those very old Chinese silk paintings of mountains veiled in mist and when the sun comes out the surrounding mountains are stunning.

While walking through the plaza you see a beautiful mission and convent built in 1592. The Catholic Church has a full-time staff of muralists who go around Mexico restoring old missions. They were working on the convent while I was there. They gave me permission to sit and watch them work…very interesting and time consuming. Talk about patience! Also in the plaza is the colonial municipal building still being used for government and areas for the open air market still held on Saturdays and Sundays. You notice the people and realize you are looking at the descendents of Aztecs. You are looking at history hidden away. Someone pointed out the pyramid ruin high on the mountain. Once you know where it's located you find yourself checking it out throughout your stay. Sometimes you'll see very old women wearing dresses and pinafores; their hair pulled into one long braid hanging down their backs, and their faces telling of hard lives. The townspeople are vibrant, very polite, helpful and sweet. I asked a traffic patrolwoman where a particular building was and she took my hand and walked me there.

All the town's streets are paved in cobble stones that are angled toward the middle of the road to funnel rain toward the valley. Each night, a one-hour rain shower douses the town which accounts for the lush vegetation. During the day you can hear horses' hooves clip clopping along at a slow pace. Most of the cars are small due to narrow streets. Going down the mountain closer to the valley, very tall stone and adobe walls hide houses. Cascading bougainvillea of all colors adorn the walls. Of course I spent time peeking through the tall gates and spied wonders (like Carter in 1923).

I stayed at the Villa del Tepoz Fuego, a wonderful B&B that was built only two years ago by the owners, Bruce and Marci Kramer, originally from Maryland! They were gracious and charming and quickly made me feel at home. The grounds of the B&B are lovely. It backs up against the mountains and when you're having breakfast outside you're looking up at them. Bruce said it was mandatory to spend at least 20 minutes each day in one of the three hammocks located in secret spots around the garden. In addition to testing hammocks, I tested the pool and Jacuzzi. It was all very exhausting requiring afternoon siestas. The staff is very accommodating and efficient, great care is taken with details; the chef provides excellent food.

Scroll through their WEB pages:

www.villadeltepozfuego.com

I realize I must sound like an advertisement but I cannot rave enough about the B&B.

One day I had lunch at the Posada del Tepoztco, a Mexican "heritage" hacienda that has been converted to a hotel. www.posadadeltepozteco.com Take a look…beautiful hotel with spectacular views.

Getting There. The best/easiest way to get there is to fly into Mexico City. Luckily the B&B had transportation to/fro the airport at a special price. Julian (a superb driver who had lived in Mexico City in a previous life) picked me up inside the airport and drove me to Tepostlan (approx. 2 hours). Never rent a car!!!! Always arrange car travel by private driver. The drive through Mexico City during rush hour is scary, dangerous, and above all, thrilling! One travel book said that "driving through Mexico City is like doing post-graduate work in chaos theory". You will never forget the experience. I sat up front with Julian in order to experience the full thrill of it all. One taxi company uses Volkswagen "Bugs" colored bright lime green, hot red, and bright yellow; the front passenger seats have been removed and passengers "crawl" into the back seat and stretch out more comfortably. It made me yearn for an old VW again. Surprisingly, during the driving chaos everyone is polite. You don't hear honking horns and, in fact, there's an odd sort of rhythm that is very eerie. After leaving the city you start climbing mountains on an excellent four lane highway with stunning views. After living in arid San Jose del Cabo the lush vegetation takes your breath away: pine trees (including torey pines), blooming flowers, much, much greenery. Flower stalls along the roadway contain thousands of long-stem roses (three dozen for $7). Then, all of a sudden, you are off the highway going down a rabbit hole on a paved, switchback road…the sides of the road are built with brick scallops. Occasionally, you see the valley far below. Finally you arrive in Tepoztlan and you enter another world.

I know I will return, someday.

Travel Tips: 1) If you decide to visit Tepoztlan take aspirin because of the altitude.
2) Know some Spanish.
3) Wear sturdy walking shoes (rubber soles) to walk over the cobble stones.

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Matthew K from Queens, NY recommends this hotel

Overall satisfaction Hotel service Hotel condition Room cleanliness Room comfort
5 5.0 5.0 4.0 4.0
Posted: 15-Sep-08
Well worth the stay

Villa Del Tepoz Fuego is an incredible facility in a remarkable geographical area. The room was immaculate & comfortable. The building was well maintained, and the landscaping was great. If you do stay here I HIGHLY recommend that you eat in-house, especially dinner. The stuffed salmon was to die for & the filet steak was aweome too. All within a modest price as well. They have a huge wine selection ranging from affordable and tasty to exquisite and hard to find. Save room for dessert and be sure to try the lemon pie! The owner was nice and even willing to go out of his way for our needs. The margaritas are one of a kind.
Traveler's tip on local attractions

Give yourself a minimum of 3-4 days in the area no matter where you stay or you will feel slighted. Their is a magical vibe in the town of Tepoztlan, a certain energy, that you will be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world. Take the climb up to pyrmaid, it is well worth it the trip.
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