Click here to read about us in the news

Tepoztlan - July, 2007

I have just returned from spending seven days in Tepoztlan, a mysterious pueblo located high
(5,000 ft altitude) in the mountains, and 60 miles south of Mexico City. The travel book describes it best:

"Tepoztlan is one of the strangest and most beautiful towns in Mexico. Largely undiscovered by foreign tourists, it occupies the side of the mountain and the floor of a lush valley whose walls were formed by bizarrely shaped mountains that look like the work of some abstract expressionist giant. The mountains are visible from almost everywhere in town - even the municipal parking lot has a spectacular view.
Tepoztlan is small and steeped in legend and mystery ---it is adjacent to the alleged birthplace of Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec serpent god. The town comes about as close as you're going to get to an unspoiled, magical mountain hideaway."

The location of the town reminded me of those very old Chinese silk paintings of mountains veiled in mist and when the sun comes out the surrounding mountains are stunning.

While walking through the plaza you see a beautiful mission and convent built in 1592. The Catholic Church has a full-time staff of muralists who go around Mexico restoring old missions. They were working on the convent while I was there. They gave me permission to sit and watch them work…very interesting and time consuming. Talk about patience! Also in the plaza is the colonial municipal building still being used for government and areas for the open air market still held on Saturdays and Sundays. You notice the people and realize you are looking at the descendents of Aztecs. You are looking at history hidden away. Someone pointed out the pyramid ruin high on the mountain. Once you know where it's located you find yourself checking it out throughout your stay. Sometimes you'll see very old women wearing dresses and pinafores; their hair pulled into one long braid hanging down their backs, and their faces telling of hard lives. The townspeople are vibrant, very polite, helpful and sweet. I asked a traffic patrolwoman where a particular building was and she took my hand and walked me there.

All the town's streets are paved in cobble stones that are angled toward the middle of the road to funnel rain toward the valley. Each night, a one-hour rain shower douses the town which accounts for the lush vegetation. During the day you can hear horses' hooves clip clopping along at a slow pace. Most of the cars are small due to narrow streets. Going down the mountain closer to the valley, very tall stone and adobe walls hide houses. Cascading bougainvillea of all colors adorn the walls. Of course I spent time peeking through the tall gates and spied wonders (like Carter in 1923).

I stayed at the Villa del Tepoz Fuego, a wonderful B&B that was built only two years ago by the owners, Bruce and Marci Kramer, originally from Maryland! They were gracious and charming and quickly made me feel at home. The grounds of the B&B are lovely. It backs up against the mountains and when you're having breakfast outside you're looking up at them. Bruce said it was mandatory to spend at least 20 minutes each day in one of the three hammocks located in secret spots around the garden. In addition to testing hammocks, I tested the pool and Jacuzzi. It was all very exhausting requiring afternoon siestas. The staff is very accommodating and efficient, great care is taken with details; the chef provides excellent food.

Scroll through their WEB pages:

www.villadeltepozfuego.com

I realize I must sound like an advertisement but I cannot rave enough about the B&B.

One day I had lunch at the Posada del Tepoztco, a Mexican "heritage" hacienda that has been converted to a hotel. www.posadadeltepozteco.com Take a look…beautiful hotel with spectacular views.

Getting There. The best/easiest way to get there is to fly into Mexico City. Luckily the B&B had transportation to/fro the airport at a special price. Julian (a superb driver who had lived in Mexico City in a previous life) picked me up inside the airport and drove me to Tepostlan (approx. 2 hours). Never rent a car!!!! Always arrange car travel by private driver. The drive through Mexico City during rush hour is scary, dangerous, and above all, thrilling! One travel book said that "driving through Mexico City is like doing post-graduate work in chaos theory". You will never forget the experience. I sat up front with Julian in order to experience the full thrill of it all. One taxi company uses Volkswagen "Bugs" colored bright lime green, hot red, and bright yellow; the front passenger seats have been removed and passengers "crawl" into the back seat and stretch out more comfortably. It made me yearn for an old VW again. Surprisingly, during the driving chaos everyone is polite. You don't hear honking horns and, in fact, there's an odd sort of rhythm that is very eerie. After leaving the city you start climbing mountains on an excellent four lane highway with stunning views. After living in arid San Jose del Cabo the lush vegetation takes your breath away: pine trees (including torey pines), blooming flowers, much, much greenery. Flower stalls along the roadway contain thousands of long-stem roses (three dozen for $7). Then, all of a sudden, you are off the highway going down a rabbit hole on a paved, switchback road…the sides of the road are built with brick scallops. Occasionally, you see the valley far below. Finally you arrive in Tepoztlan and you enter another world.

I know I will return, someday.

Travel Tips: 1) If you decide to visit Tepoztlan take aspirin because of the altitude.
2) Know some Spanish.
3) Wear sturdy walking shoes (rubber soles) to walk over the cobble stones.

===================================================================

Alex and I just returned from a vacation to Tepotzlan, Mexico, and I feel compelled to tell you about this place, as I think you would REALLY like vacationing there. The B&B/spa/villa with extraordinary restaurant was truly incredible and a great bargain, but you can find great places to stay all over the world, so first I'll tell you a bit about Tepotzlan.

Tepotzlan is a spiritually sacred puebla set amidst spectacularly beautiful mountains about 1 hour south of Mexico City. The setting is rivaled only by Macchu Pichu by my travel experience. The puebla itself is charming: cobbled streets, wonderful little shops that feature beautiful Mexican arts, very good restaurants, a lovely church/former convent, and, of course, a food and handicraft open market. The town is very authentically Mexican, but due to the spectacularly beautiful setting and high spiritual energy of the place, it has attracted savvy travelers from around the world, some of which have made Tepotzlan their second home. That means that you can find a terrific espresso shop, some really good restaurants, purified water, yoga and chi gong classes, English speakers. There are ancient ruins and pyramids set in the mountains, so hiking and spiritual journey opportunities abound. Did I mention that there are nearby golf courses? (Alex and I don't, but who knows: you might!)

As for the amazing inn at which we stayed: http://www.villadeltepozfuego.com/index.htm
The Villa is owned and operated by Bruce and Marci Kramer. They moved from Maryland to Tepotzlan about 4 years ago, purchased the Villa and remodeled it into a fabulous BandB complete with spa, small conferencing facilities and a full on small restaurant. The rooms are beautiful and comfortable, nearly all affording wonderful views of those enchanting mountains.
We stayed in the Oaxaca Suite, which is the room I would recommend for you. A full gourmet cooked to order breakfast is included in your room fee, When I say gourmet, I mean international spa cuisine standard fare. The chef, Noe, is a genius. His food is seasoned and cooked to perfection, and it is light, highly flavorful and completely fresh, whether it is adapted traditional Mexican, European or fusion. Marci, a former nurse and terrific cook herself, has worked with Noe to make sure that he has adapted his recipes to be much lower in salt, fat and sugar than traditional Mexican chefs' fare.

Bruce, an Acupuncturist, has hand picked the therapists, and trust me, they are gifted--not your run of the mill spa therapists.

Of course, there is a pool, hot tub, small conferencing facility as well all set in a gorgeous garden surrounded by the mountains.

This is a place where you would enjoy a romantic reprieve or a time out for yourself, or you could take a group of your clients for a mission creating workshop, etc. The energy of the place and the setting is just right for it. I think it holds 14 guests that could stay there, but they work with another nearby inn for larger groups. they can hold many more for workshops.

Anyway, if you are interested in knowing more, check out the website http://www.villadeltepozfuego.com/index.htm

Lisa Stein